Where have the Brussels chestnut sellers gone?

23/07/2024

Until a few decades ago, every year starting on 2 October, the deliciously sweet smell of roasted chestnuts spread across the central avenues and many a square in Brussels. A gastronomic tradition which is sadly dying.

Marie Jacobs descended from a dynasty of chestnut sellers. Between the Bourse and the Place De Brouckère on the Boulevard Anspach in Brussels, she sold the hot autumn delicacy at her usual stall. For more than half a century, people strolling through the capital shuffled along in long lines. She would sit at her stall with her six siblings. Before them, their parents and cousins did the same.

The edible variety of the fruit is oval, fairly flat at the top, with a white protrusion at the bottom, is contained in a husk with long, thin spikes and has a nutty taste. First it gets a slit in the skin, otherwise it does not pop, but rather it explodes. After about five minutes on the hot plate, the chestnut is ready to eat. By the way, if you feel nauseous after consuming one or two, you can bet that you have swapped them for a wild or horse chestnut.

Until 1989, they were still varieties from Brussels or Belgium. Why the native people gave them up then is uncertain. The fact is that the Italian ones are considered the best in Europe. They have cornered our market. For some strange reason, 2 October - and not a day earlier - is regarded among connoisseurs as the date for kicking off the annual roasting of good quality chestnuts. Another useful fact if you do not want to look a proper fool: never order x number of grams, but only a multiple of 7, possibly increased by 3. Only if you leave the stall with 7, 10, 14, 17, 21, 24 etc. items, will you be noticed by the seller. At least if you find one in the autumn somewhere, for example at a food festival or, with very good luck, along the public road ...