A charming setting for outstanding Belgian gastronomy
The Taverne du Passage, one of the historical jewels of Brussels' culinary heritage, has reopened its doors. This legendary venue, located just a stone's throw from the Grand-Place in the splendid Galeries Royales Saint Hubert, has taken on a new lease of life and has more drive than ever.
The institution opened in 1928 during the roaring twenties, the time of the Charleston, the flapper girl and the straw boater. While it now has a modern look, the Tavern has retained a hint of nostalgia that gives it a uniqueness and an Art Deco charm. First impressions after renovation are that everything is much brighter. The furniture is new and the woodwork adds a touch of warmth. It is a beautiful setting made for the Gatsbys of Brussels.
Antoine Mariscal, the young 30-year-old chef and former Belgian tennis champion, is as adept with a frying pan as he was with a racket. After a stint at Bruneau, he was able to reappropriate the dishes that made the restaurant famous, not spoiling them but giving them a new twist. Regulars can rest assured that the Taverne's must-haves are still on the menu: grey shrimp croquettes, onion soup au gratin, vol-au-vent with Malines chicken, as well as sweetbreads, marrow bone and French toast, among others.
This is a renaissance that will delight both the eyes and the taste buds.