Cassonade Graeffe Brown Sugar: a Brussels invention

White, dark brown or light brown sugar? All taste delicious with pancakes or rice pudding, for example. The latter variety, also known as kinnekessuiker [children's sugar], was invented in Brussels in the 19th century by the pioneering German industrialist Karl Gräffe.

Rue de Manchester 21, located in the Brussels commune of Molenbeek-Saint-Jean. Today, La Raffinerie – Charleroi Danse , part of the Fédération Wallonie-Bruxelles, trains dancers and choreographers, among others. From 1858 until 1953, this spot was a hub of a completely different activity.

Karl Gräffe, born around 1820, moved from Germany to Belgium as a young boy. He was born into a family of cloth merchants. In 1858, he boldly ventured into the sugar industry. He established a small factory amid the network of food processing plants along the Brussels-Charleroi Canal in Molenbeek-Saint-Jean. His bold move surprised his fellow industrialists at a time when sugar was still a nascent industry. But nothing and no one could sway this determined go-getter. He adopted the French form of his name and, from that point onward, went by Charles Graeffe. He was a highly esteemed figure in the business world. He believed in an artisanal approach, ensured his workers had Sundays off, and, during the cholera and smallpox outbreaks, made it a point to visit their homes to offer assistance.

At the Graeffe refinery, a new type of sugar was being developed. This led to the creation of cassonade: a high-quality, light brown sugar with a soft texture and slight caramelisation, made from cane or beet sugar mixed with molasses. The red, blue, and white packaging depicted a cheerful, curly-haired figure biting into a sandwich with powdered sugar. Later, a blonde sweet-tooth character was added to entice foodies. Hence, in Flanders, the delicacy is also known as 'kinnekessuiker' [children's sugar]. Raffinerie Tirlemontoise acquired the company in the 1950s, partly out of sentiment, ensuring the continuation of the name Cassonade Graeffe and its familiar boy on the packaging. It did, however, add its own logo. Christophe Castellano, a local from Schaerbeek, posed for a photo in the 1980s, which served as the model for today's illustration. During the 2014 World Cup in Brazil, Christophe temporarily stepped aside for Kevin De Bruyne. Then, in 2018, the cheeky character was ‘reported missing’ as part of a campaign by Child Focus – The Foundation for Missing and Sexually Exploited Children, marking its 20th anniversary. Just temporarily, since today he’s back to enjoying his favourite brown sugar.